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  • Alaska
    • Day One - Juneau
    • Day Two - Skagway
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    • Day Five - Whales
    • Day Six - Icebergs
    • Day Seven - Kayaking and Solitude
    • Day Eight - Sitka
    • Our Last Night
    • On to Juneau
    • Hangin' with the bear at Pack Creek
    • Spirit & Beauty - The Flight from Juneau
    • Motorhoming in Alaska
    • The Homer spit and adventures at the Salty Dawg
    • Halibut fishing and more fun in Homer
    • Lots of wildlife on the way to Kenai
    • Exit Glacier & trip sandwiches
    • Experiencing Seward
    • Dog sledding in summer
    • Playful porpoises, beautiful glaciers and an unexpected wedding
    • Whittier - A town of contrasts:
    • Turnagain Arm and a camping bear n Anchorage
    • Palmer Friday & the Musk Ox Farm
    • Talkeetna - Music has no age limits
    • Soaring around Mt. McKinley & landing on Ruth glacier
    • Denali
    • Ten Hours - 134 Miles and Incredible Clouds
    • The Richardson Highway - Heading to Valdez
    • Wrapping up our Alaskan adventure
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"One's destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things." -Henry Miller

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DOG SLEDDING IN SUMMER

6/11/2014

 
Today, we decide to check out Turning Heads Kennel just outside of Seward.  Owners Travis Beals & Sarah Stokey own 45 sled dogs (and, per their brochure, 2 very brave
cats).  Travis ran the Iditarod for the first time last year, and his enthusiasm and fresh insight into what he learned as a rookie are contagious.   Seeing Travis’ sled and the provisions it carried last year helps us to envision his experience.
  
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The Iditarod is the longest dog sled race in the world, beginning in Anchorage, Alaska and ending in Nome, about 1,150 miles away.  (The start in Anchorage is ceremonial and
doesn’t count toward the competition’s race time.  This start is a warm-up, with the official race beginning at an isolated restart point a few hours away.)   The race starts on the first Saturday in March.  Average race length is between 9 and 12 days – a LONG time in my mind when I hear about the lack of sleep, the weather, the dark . . .  Mushers and dogs have to be very tough and tenacious.   The Iditarod Trail has been used for centuries by natives as a link between villages, and was used during the 1920’s gold rush, but the first Iditarod race was run in 1967, and was only about 27 miles long at that time.  The first full-length race took place in 1973. 
 
Travis illustrates how he takes boots on and off the dogs and how he puts jackets on the dogs with hand warmers inserted (like those we use in our ski gloves).   We think about doing this for 16 dogs after little or no sleep in days, in sub-zero weather and mostly in the dark since days are very short in March when the Iditarod is run.
  
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The Iditarod begins with 16 dogs and dogs can be dropped off at stops if needed, but dogs cannot be added after the race is begun.  Volunteers fly injured dogs back to the official race start point where they’re cared for until after the race.  
 
The Iditarod rules require one mandatory 24 hour stop at any rest stop, with the location at the musher’s discretion, one eight hour rest stop at any checkpoint on the Yukon River, and another eight hour stop at White Mountain, the last stop before the finish line in Nome.   Travis explains that an eight-hour rest stop is far from eight hours of sleep.  Time must be spent checking and taking care of the dogs, organizing supplies and other maintenance priorities.  Sleep is a rare commodity on this dog sled race. 
 
Provisions are sent ahead to stops so only about one day’s provisions are required to be carried on the sled itself, in addition to a heavy sleeping bag, an arctic parka, snowshoes, an ax, food for the musher, and boots for each dog’s feet to protect against hard packed snow and ice.  Much of the weight carried is dog food, since the dogs burn a lot of calories and need to eat often and in large quantity.   The dogs are smaller than I’d anticipated, but Travis compares them to marathon runners – who aren’t generally built like football  players.  These dogs are faster than a horse and pound for pound, can pull about twice as much weight as a horse.
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Certain supplies are mandatory and others are optional.   Travis explains that extra dog
food is used by the locals in small villages.  Without this dog food, natives in these villages might have difficulty keeping dogs. 
 
Dogs are implanted with trackable microchips as well as collar tags, but if a musher falls off (a possibility since they’ve had very little sleep) – s/he’d be left with no GPS for the musher to be tracked.  Because of this risk, mushers ALWAYS hang onto the sled & the dogs. 
 
Travis helps us to envision the children and people of native villages running up to the dogs in greeting as they pass through or take one of their stops.  It’s important that the dogs are comfortable with people so this doesn’t stress them.  One of the ways Travis trains his dogs to enjoy people is by having guests, like us, handle the puppies and the dogs.  The puppies are adorable.
  
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It’s also important to keep the dogs in shape year round.  Our summer ride in a wheeled cart gives us an idea of how the dogs pull and helps to train young dogs and to finance Travis’ goal of being the youngest Iditarod champion.  He’s now 21, and the youngest champion was 24.  
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Another option offered by Turning Heads Kennel in conjunction with Seward Helicopters is to fly through a glaciated valley, over a beautiful mountain ridge to Godwin Glacier and dogsled across the snow. 
 
IF YOU GO: 

Contact: 
www.TurningHeadsKennel.com
Phone:  (907)-362-4354
 
Summer 1 ½ hour tours available at 9:00, 10:30, 12:00, 2:00, 4:00 & 6:30.  Call to reserve and to confirm times.  $59/Adult; $29/Children under 12
 
Winter Tours – 3 hours including kennel tour and ride through Kenai Fjords National Park.   $249/person

Helicopter Mushing from Mid-May through Early September $449/person
  

EXPERIENCING SEWARD

6/10/2014

 
There are two commercial areas of Seward. Downtown has an ‘Old-West, authentic Alaska
feeling.
  

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The marina area has  more upscale bars and restaurants, and the departure area for most
tours.  
 
Last night, we had the best food of our trip at Ray’s Waterfront Dining in Seward.  The dining room looks over the marina where we could watch fishing boats coming in, and
birds soaring to check out their potential take of the catch.
 
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Jhan and I share the Scallop appetizer and our two entrees – Salmon, and seafood fettucini.  
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Tonight, we camp on another beautiful beach surrounded by mountains.  
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The 1964 earthquake and tsunami hit Seward hard.  Buildings along the beach were destroyed at that time, and have been moved back to somewhat higher ground.  The town
decided at that point that anything on the beach should have wheels, so we benefit from these beachfront campgrounds with options both downtown and near the marina.  
 
We enjoy meeting new friends while sitting on the beach next to the motorhome.  The group we meet at the campground on the beach describes themselves as a Turk, an Eskimo, a Mexican and an Arizonan – sharing marshmallows, stories and a grill cover substituting for a fire pit.  Travelers are amazing people, who expand our travel experiences from our current travel location to worldwide through stories and personalities.  
 
The Alaska Sea Life Center with large underwater viewing areas and sea lion training sessions is located in downtown Seward.  It’s a nice place to get up close to native
birds, sea lions and other sea life.   The Center does marine animal research and acts as a rehabilitation center for sick and injured marine animals.
 
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EXIT GLACIER & TRIP SANDWICHES

6/9/2014

 
Sometimes we feel inconsequential, especially when standing next to a mountain,  but  observing glaciers over these past few days, watching the moraine being pushed to the edge makes me realize -- These are little pieces of mountain, chopped up by – SNOWFLAKES.   Maybe one little flake CAN make a difference.   Perhaps each of us is not so inconsequential.  
 
Today, we’re at Exit Glacier just outside of Seward.
 
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Trip Sandwiches And Other Flashbacks

It’s time for lunch after hiking to the glacier.  Our lunch:  Trip Sandwiches:  Cotto Salami, lettuce, thinly sliced tomato, cheese and the most important ingredient of all – Sandwich Spread – the good kind with little chunks of pickle in it – all on wheat bread. 
 
In 1972, I travelled in a red, white & blue Chevy panel truck complete with blue curtains with
white stars and a huge wooden box on top to store supplies for a three month escapade.   Our travel group ranged from 5 to 8 and we travelled from San Diego to Vancouver, through New Mexico Ski Country to Texas, Mardi Gras, on to the Florida Keys and back home to Wisconsin.  I spent $300 on that trip.  We lived on Trip Sandwiches, which fit into our budget.   Gas was also cheap at the time.   I recall filling up the tank at 26 cents/gallon in Texas during that 1972 trip.  
 
But I digress.  A lot has changed.  I’m older and able to afford more comfortable accommodations.   Had anyone given me a picture of all that life’s  brought since 1972, I wouldn’t have believed it.   The inevitable heartache and loss has been endured, but the people I’ve surrounded myself with and those I’ve met have enriched life more than I ever could have imagined.  The places I’ve been blessed to see and the comfort in which I can now experience the world whether travelling or at home is mind-boggling.  Some things, thankfully, don’t change.  I’m sitting in our rented motorhome, parked at the bottom of gorgeous Exit Glacier outside of Seward (our second visit in the last few days).   I’m eating a Trip Sandwich.  
 
These sandwiches will always bring back memories of that first trip which instilled the love of travel, particularly in untraditional ways.   Trip sandwiches will also always remind me of my travel partners, one now my husband whose eating sandwiches with me today, and others who are all still close friends after more than four decades.  Travel brings us together, and food triggers memories.  Trip sandwiches will always taste incredible, especially in awesome surroundings, where I typically get hungry for them.
  
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Motorhome - circa 1972

LOTS OF WILDLIFE ON THE WAY TO KENAI

6/8/2014

 
The town of Kenai isn’t a destination in itself, but driving there offers lots of opportunities to
see wildlife.   We saw a Mom and baby moose and two separate female moose at the side of the road.   Road signs warned of Moose on the roads, saying that 183 moose had been killed on roads in the area over the past winter.   Moose are so tall that when a car hits them, they can end up coming through the windshield.  We learn that Moose are actually more dangerous than bear, on the roads and because they’re fast and can charge people
if they’re irritated.  So, they’re not to be treated as Bullwinkle – but we do enjoy seeing them.
 
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We drive through Kenai River Flats, which includes 3000 acres of Marsh.  On this early June drive, we see a Caribou enjoying grass just off of the road through the Marsh. 
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HALIBUT FISHING  & MORE FUN IN HOMER

6/7/2014

 
“Go Packers!” – My husband greets the elderly man wearing a Green Bay Packers’ sweatshirt whose camped a few spaces from us.  “Where are you from?”   “Eau
Claire, Wisconsin”, he says.   “That’s where we’re from, too” my husband shares.  We discover that we live within two miles of one another.  It is a small world.
  

This morning, we decide to take a Halibut fishing excursion.  The weather’s still gorgeous,
sea’s are calm and we’re ahead of the main tourist season so it’s easy to pick up a charter.   Our boat today is just the captain, two deckhands, a family with two children and Jhan and me.   We motor for about an hour and begin fishing.  Halibut are bottom fish, so we cast with a heavy lead weight to take our bait to the bottom 200 feet below.  They’re definitely biting today.  Every time my bait hits bottom and I reel up just a bit, I have a fish on, and begin reeling the line, weight and fish up the 200 feet.  The legal limit is two fish per person, so we spend the next few, very exciting hours pulling in fish and deciding whether they’re big enough to be one of our two keepers, or whether to throw this catch back in and begin again.  My arms are sore and I’m sure I’ll have a bruise on my stomach where I’ve anchored my pole, but it’s definitely worth it.   
 
The exciting fishing is surpassed only by the majestic mountain backdrop and the warm, calm, sunny weather.  
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When we’re done fishing, as we motor back to the Homer Spit, deckhands clean the fish for
us.  We’ll be met on shore by a company that will freeze, pack and ship our 20 pounds of Halibut home.
   
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We didn't catch this one but some halibut can get huge.
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Tonight we return to the Salty Dawg, and meet a tug boat captain who’s enjoying his one day off.  Again, fascinating stories and insight into a lifestyle very different from ours.  It’s an amazing world that can take people in many directions.   
 
Our last day in Homer, we take a scenic drive (somewhat of an oxymoron – ALL drives here are scenic) – but this excursion takes us to the top of a plateau above town for
sweeping views.  (If you’re there, Head east on Pioneer Ave. which turns into East End Road.  Continue about a mile to East Hill Rd, turn Left, climb steeply til intersection and take a left onto Skyline Drive.)
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We also stop at the Alaska Islands & Ocean Visitor Center which is well worth the stop to see the two short movies and exhibits of marine life and history of the area.  I learn that Alaska was significantly impacted by WWII, when the Japanese invaded the Island of Attu in the Aleutians prompting the US to not only build the Alcan Highway but to also militarize almost every Alaskan seaport town. 

I’m sad to leave Homer.  I’ve become attached to this area in our few short days – but it’s
time to continue on to other parts of the Kenai Peninsula.
  

A few relics of the past have been abandoned on the Homer spit
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THE HOMER SPIT & ADVENTURES AT THE SALTY DAWG

6/6/2014

 
When we get close to Homer, we get views of four volcanos – Augustine, Redoubt, Iliamna and Spurr. 


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The Homer Spit is a 4.5 mile sand and gravel finger that’s 19 feet above sea level, and juts SE midway across Kachemak Bay.  It’s a jumping off point for fishing boats, water taxis, etc., gorgeous views, campgrounds, and lots of bars and restaurants. 

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We decide to camp at the Homer Spit Campground, which sits on the beach with sites looking directly across the water to magnificent snow-capped mountains.  This campground is also an easy walk to the bars and restaurants on the spit.   There are several campgrounds here, and all would be close enough for walking to establishments, but the spit can be windy so it’s nice to be close.  Nearly every establishment comes with a great view, and some of the business titles are hilarious.  
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After settling in, we decide to check out the Salty Dawg Saloon, somewhat of an ‘institution’ on the Homer spit -- one of those spots that you just have to check out as a tourist since it’s listed in all the guidebooks.  We discover that it is touristy, as expected, but funky with lots of local color. 
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The place is packed by the time we arrive, but we notice a picnic table in the bar where only one couple is sitting.  Jhan immediately has them scoped out and says, “Let’s go sit with them.  They look like interesting people.”   The two + hours we spent together proved he’d made a good call.  Ron & Julie were seasoned travelers from Great Britain who’d travelled from California by motorhome and were headed to Virginia. Their stories of working in the
Middle East, of sailing the Mediterranean and the Caribbean and the motorhome  adventures were fascinating.   It was a wonderful night, and a grand way to begin our motorhome trip.   Ron& Julie may come through Wisconsin on their way back to Virginia.  Will they actually stop to see us?   When we invite them, they say “You know, we ARE the type of people who’ll actually show up.”   We hope they do.
  

This place reminds us of experiences in New Zealand where certain places attracted tourists from around the world, all looking to meet other travellers and all speaking English,
allowing for in-depth conversation and world travel stories.  It’s one of our favorite experiences in travel.  
 
Homer, and particularly the spit, is GORGEOUS and is a perfect place to watch the sun go
down at about 1 a.m.   It didn’t seem so late when we left the bar, but that’s what happens when daylight doesn’t begin to wane til after midnight.    I look forward to waking up to look out at these amazing mountains.   This will be a wonderful place to spend a few days.  Weather’s perfect.  Just over 70 degrees, sunny, yet no bugs.
  We take a walk on the beach and enjoy the long shadows cast by the sun finally beginning to set.
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Here’s the first thing I see when I roll over and look out the window this morning – our view from the bed in the motorhome:
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MOTORHOMING IN ALASKA

6/5/2014

 
It’s time to begin the second leg of our adventure.   A & M RV Center picks us up
from the Anchorage Airport and we proceed to their facility to organize for the
motorhome segment of our trip.  We’re renting a 22 foot Class B Motorhome for the next two weeks.  We selected A & M based on price, floor plan of motorhomes available, and quality of service when we contacted various companies.
 
 
We compared potential expense of travelling by motorhome vs. renting a car combined with motel stays.  Motorhome rental exceeds car rental rates, but car rental in Anchorage does tend to be expensive so there's less of a differential than may be the case in other areas in the United States.  Travelling by motorhome gives us the flexibility to decide how long to stay in any area, allows us to cook for ourselves when we choose to, and eliminates motel costs.  It’s likely that we’ll stay in campgrounds most nights, but in Alaska, unless a location is specifically posted with ‘no camping’ notices, motorhomes are welcome to park for the night.   We’ll enjoy having our own little ‘home’, where we can settle in and not haul suitcases into motels each night, and in past travel, we’ve enjoyed the camaraderie that naturally occurs among campers.   
 
Our package includes most items we’ll need, but we will need groceries and a few other items.  We’re not coffee drinkers, so we leave the large coffeemaker with the rental company.  This saves important cupboard space for us.  We’ll need a converter for use in charging our cell phones and other electronics.  We’ve forgotten to bring one, so we’ll spring for the $30 to pick one up.   We enjoy testing local restaurants, but want basic groceries so we’re prepared for anywhere we might end up, which, in Alaska, could include some remote areas.   
 
Picking up and stocking the motorhome takes longer than planned, but we’re on the road by 3:00, heading out of Anchorage.  Our destination for tonight is Homer, about 4.5-5 hours drive time IF we drive straight through, which we won’t. It’s very convenient that the little bit of darkness we get each night doesn’t arrive til well after midnight.  Then again, we're driving our bedroom, so if we get tired or simply choose to stop earlier, we can just  stop.  We're loving the flexibility. 
 
Here’s our home for  the next two weeks:
 

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IF YOU RENT:
 
Company Name:  A & M RV Center
2225 E. 5th Ave.,
Anchorage, AK  99501-2924
 
To book or for more information:

 Web page:  www.gorv.com
Phone:  (907)-279-5508 or (800)-478-4678

SPIRIT & BEAUTY – THE FLIGHT FROM JUNEAU

6/4/2014

 
The flight from Juneau to Anchorage via Alaska Air is awe-inspiring for two reasons – our travel companions and the scenery.   
 
We had the pleasure of travelling with the Special Olympics basketball team who have an upcoming meet in Anchorage.  The excitement in the air before boarding is contagious.   The Special Olympics’ enthusiasm reminds us of just how magnificent it is to be flying, particularly over this scenery. 
 
After takeoff, our pilot welcomes the Special Olympics group and wishes them luck on their upcoming meet.  Huge cheers erupt from the team.  Landing reminds me of my first flight as a child as I hear the passengers gasp in excitement as the tires hit the tarmac, and I hear a comment from behind:  “No more plane ride?”   This group has wisdom and appreciation for what’s really important that I sometimes miss.  It’s been a wonderful reminder for me to notice and appreciate the little things.  
 
The innocent joy I’m surrounded with can be matched only by the astounding beauty outside of our window.   The continuous array of mountains and glaciers pass by as if on a never-ending geologic conveyor belt.
  
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As we approach Anchorage, we can see the top of Mt. McKinley far to the north in full view welcoming us to the next leg of  our adventure. 

HANGIN' WITH THE BEAR AT PACK CREEK 

6/3/2014

 
Today, we take a  25-minute float plane trip from Juneau to Pack Creek Zoological Area on  Admiralty Island – one of the few areas on the planet where wild brown bears live freely while ignoring the people watching them.  This is thanks to Stan Pierce, a man who lived here in a cabin for nearly four decades beginning in 1952, co-existing with the bear.  Pack Creek is now cooperatively managed by the U.S. Forest Service and Alaska Fish & Game.  
 
Our excursion begins at the Juneau airport, where we meet our guide, Ken Leghorn, owner of Pack Creek Outfitters.   Ken supplies us with a box lunch, water, and knee-high rubber boots -(standard Alaska footwear, we’re discovering).
  
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The flight is an up-close-and-personal experience with heart-stopping gorgeous scenery combined with noise and vibrations of the small Alaska Seaplanes float plane.  Our guide has a great eye, and points out killer whales surfacing in the water as we fly over.  
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When we land, we hop out of the plane into the water and wade onto shore, where we’re greeted by a ranger.  Our guide and the ranger make sure all food is left in a bear-proof box.  The balance between the bear and people is maintained by ensuring that people are never correlated with food in the bears’ minds.  
 
Our float plane takes off and leaves us for our five hour Pack Creek excursion.
   
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We proceed to hike about a half mile, hearing crunching under our feet as we walk along the beach that’s covered in clams. It looks like a high-end buffet for the bear. 
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Our hike ends at a viewing area with a log to sit on, a nice spotting scope, and another ranger.  We get cameras out, sit on the log and check out our surroundings.  There’s still a little evidence of Stan’s cabin, which was left to ‘return to the earth’ after he passed away in 1989.  He lived in paradise, albeit a remote one with long, cold winters and no pizza delivery.  The mountain backdrop frames Pack Creek, which meanders along the valley.  We sit for a few minutes.  There’s a slight drizzle;  fitting weather for this remote rain-forest area.  It’s warm and comfortable, and we’re prepared with rain gear. 
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We’re here pre-Salmon run which begins in July, so after settling in for about 15 minutes, I wonder whether we’ll see bear today.  At that point, our guide tells us to turn around, and we see two bear approaching us from the wooded area next to the beach.  It’s likely that we just walked within a few feet of these bear without seeing them. 
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The rest of our five hours at Pack Creek fly by.  With the exception of a short hike to the food box and a lunch break on the beach, we watch bear continuously.  A bear lounges on the beach while we walk past on our way back to the viewing area. 
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The bear appear to be oblivious to us.  They’re VERY aware of one another, however. Bear hierarchy is obvious as two small bear, likely yearlings, take off across the meadow to put distance between themselves and a larger, ambling adult.  
The flight home is rainy, giving us the true sense of the lifestyle and experiences of the many bush pilots who provide the foundation of transportation in these remote areas. 
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This has definitely been a day well spent.  

ON TO JUNEAU

6/2/2014

 
We depart Sitka on an Alaska Air flight to Juneau.   Observing travel between islands in Alaska is interesting.  For many residents, even going to see Grandma entails flying.   We sit just behind a young mother flying with her four children and are impressed with her parenting skills.   She's obviously done this before.  She anticipates potential issues, has come prepared with snacks and books, lets the kids know her expectations and then compliments them on their good behavior in regular intervals to give incentive to keep it up.   Her organization, patience, people and parenting skills are a pleasure to observe. 
    
It’s easy to get a view of downtown Juneau by taking a ride on the Mt. Roberts tramway.  The view from the top is worth the ride, and gives us a panorama of the overall area.   
 
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A 10-15 minute hike will take you above tree line, and for the more adventurous, in lieu of the tram ride down there is a 4.5 mile trail back to town.  Today, we opt to take the tram.  For anyone with less than stellar knees, other gorgeous hiking trails in the area may be the better choice.

The other Juneau highlight we want to check out is the Mendenhall Glacier, located outside of town, not too far from the airport.  Mendenhall is one of 38 glaciers that flow from the Juneau Icefield, with annual snowfall exceeding 100 feet.   

The Visitor Center has nice views and some nice exhibits, ranger programs and a good 15 minute movie entitled “Landscape of Change”.  There’s a $3.00 charge to enter the Center.   To really experience the glacier, there are several easy trails.  Less than half a mile from the Visitor Center, Photo Point Trail offers a good vantage point for viewing or photographing the glacier from across the lake at the bottom of the glacier.   

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A 20 minute walk each way takes you to Nugget Falls, where you can stand under a large waterfall and also be close enough to the glacier to feel the cold air coming from its’ surface.   
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The East Glacier Loop Trail is a three mile loop trail.   This gravel trail offers views of the glacier from a higher grade.  

Guided kayak rentals on the lake are also available, as well as helicopter trips to the glacier.   Tours are even available to fly over the glacier, land and go dogsledding while up there.    The level of activity may vary based on weather.  Juneau is located in a rainforest, so if you’re there on a clear day, take advantage of the wonderful activities available.    

If you go: 

Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center, 8510 Mendenhall Loop Road, Juneau, AK 99801

Phone:  (907)-789-0097

www.fs.fed.us/r10/tongass/districts/mendenhall

Juneau is a cruise ship town but has personality and natural beauty.   The Red Dog Saloon caters to the cruise ship crowd and other tourists but has a charm that’s worth checking out.    Sawdust floors, taxidermy, trapping memorabilia including furs, guns and antiques make this a fun, classic Alaska stop.  Tracy’s Crab Shack, right next to the Cruise Ship Dock is a Juneau institution with personality and good food.  

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    Author

    Writer, photographer, coach, consultant and attorney Colleen Cowles writes this blog to enhance readers' travel, dreams and experiences whether on the road or in imagination and memories.  Cowles42 references 'the meaning of life' from the Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy.  To Colleen, the meaning of life is all about the journey, and sharing discovery, reflection and adventure with others.  

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